Isle of Man, Greece and Portugal

I’ve been remiss and I feel bad. I haven’t been keeping up the blog like I’ve wanted to and many adventures have passed (and photos been taken) without being documented. The month of June of this year however has been special and it deserves to be recorded. I’ll try to backfill other stories in the future.

It began for me on the Isle of Man; I was there to marshal again at the TT. At the same time, our good friends Kim and Scott arrived from Seattle to see us and to celebrate Scott’s retirement after selling the business he’d co-owned for 30+ years. They had planned a blowout sailing cruise in Greece and invited us to join them for the fun. There would be a small overlap; Scott and Kim would be in Valencia while I was still on IOM, but Cindy was eager to show them Valencia and Barcelona while I was playing with motorcycles and I’d join up later.

Isle of Man

I flew to IOM at the end of May for two weeks as a marshal at the TT. For those of you who don’t know what the TT is, I’ll summarize briefly: it’s a time trial race around the two-lane highways of the island for several different classes of motorcycles including sidecars. The organizers hold a week of practice and a week of racing around the 37-3/4 mile course and they need volunteer marshals to be stationed around the course to ensure the safety of the riders and the public. This is the second year I’ve participated and I’m eager to keep going back.

I’m lucky in that I have local residents to stay with as it’s tough to find someplace to stay during the event. The island’s population swells by half it’s offseason count during the TT and hotel rooms are like hen’s teeth. My hosts for the last two years, Alan and Vicki, have become good friends and they are incredibly generous with me. Alan has managed both years to find a bike for me to ride around the island to get to my marshaling posts and do a little touring as well.

My trusty steed for the occasion.

I was smart enough to choose locations close to home base in Douglas this year, precluding 45 minute rides in the dark and cold, as I did last year. I hardly used all the layers I brought with me, thanks to quick commutes and great weather. Marshals aren’t allowed to take pictures so I only have a few from the days I took off from working the course.

Alan and Vicki at the Purple Helmets BBQ during a race week rest day
This is why the TT is so cool, anyone can get this close to the action.

Action at Greeba Bridge is amazing, you can get right next to the bikes as they apex on the stone walls. Some riders got close enough they had to pull their knee in to avoid brushing the wall.

Even though riders start off separated by 10 seconds, the racing can get close
Love this shot. It captures the speed of the bikes. Marshals in the background doing what they hope to do all day, stand around.

When the sidecars’ turn came around, I moved down the field a bit to catch their approach.

Watch the passengers set up for the corner.

On a rest day, the Purple Helmets Display Team, sadly now defunct, traditionally have a picnic / potluck and impromptu motocross event. I was fortunate enough to be invited this year and caught some of the action.

Goofy as their shows were, they really are pretty skilled riders.

Another day we hit Union Mills to catch the action.

The Red Arrows put on an airshow while we were having dinner on the bluff overlooking Douglas Bay

Finally, the Helmets assembled at the Victory Cafe on Snaefel Mountain to promote and sign their new book, “At Speeds Approaching 100 Miles an Hour,” documenting the Helmets history. Proceeds go to the local hospice. I was lucky enough to get a faceful of dust, thanks Alan, when they performed one of their most famous stunts, “Ride your bikes through the local pub many times and make a mess.”

I was too slow to get inside before the stunt
The Birchall brothers are the team to beat in Sidecars and set a new lap record at 120 MPH average speed
Michael Dunlop also set a record for the 600 CC class with a 130 MPH lap. Not pictured: the record setting Superstock (1000 CC “stock” class) with a 136+ MPH lap, set by Peter Hickman.
This is me and “Wheelie” Konni, the TT Badge Man. He’s a well known face a the TT, having come to every TT since 1988 and worn the same set of leathers every year. Somehow he hooked up with our group for a bit one night on the Promenade; we ended up buying him a beer and wondering if he was going to come home with us but then he finally wandered off.

And with that, I flew back to Valencia with a day to do laundry and then hopped a bus to Barcelona to meet up with Cindy, Scott and Kim. What they did while I was away is left a mystery but we flew the following day to Athens to begin our Greek adventure.

Greece

We had a couple of days to explore Athens before hopping onto the boat. Our hotel was located just in the Plaka or old part of town which contains the Acropolis, Forum, museums bars and shops full of evil eye wards and wooden penises.

We found ourselves a rooftop bar the first night in town and were treated to this stunning view.
We of course had to visit the Acropolis. All our friends came too.
These ladies had a lot on their minds
Obligatory Acropolis selfie (groupie?)
Of course you have to see the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the Greek Parliament building, so we did. It’s actually a remarkable event.

Poros. Spetses. Milos. Kimolos. Paros. Antiparos. Koufonisia. Amorgos. Schinousa. Sifnos. Serifos. That’s a lot of islands in the Cyclades and each one is different. We spent two weeks sailing among these islands, departing and returning to Athens, with Kim and Scott and our good friend Cheri.

Our ride for the fortnight, “The Full House”, a Lagoon 500 cat.

Our boat was ably crewed by our skipper Kostas and cook Aliki. Kostas had the boat fully set up for singlehanding so he didn’t really need Scott’s and my help, much as we wanted to give it. We finally persuaded him to let us do a bit but like all skippers, he knew what he wanted and exactly how to get it. Aliki was an amazing cook and a bright and pleasant presence throughout the trip.

Our first day out, the weather was unsettled. We motored through a pretty big thunderstorm between Alimos (Athens) and Poros. These may have been about the last clouds we saw on the trip.
The harbor in Spetses was very photogenic
Kleftiko on Milos, home of amazing sandstone hoodoos
The warm, calm water invited swimming and paddleboarding.
We got off the boat on Kymolos and poked around the town a bit. It was a little rural.
Picturesque doorway
The wind channeled between Paros and Antiparos made the passage a kite surfer’s paradise
There are reasons (*cough*tax!*cough*) that the Greeks put up chapels all over, some of them in difficult-to-access places
The distaff portion of the group cleaned up pretty well for our exploration of Paros
I could have my morning coffee here
We had a pretty great sail on this day, a nice present for the Birthday Girl
The official Birthday Hat, accessories provided by Cheri and Kim
Scott played barkeep and whipped up many delicious concoctions from his carefully planned stores. Kim, Cindy Cheri and I were willing guinea pigs
The birthday celebrants having a delicious dessert whipped up by Aliki
Kostas and Aliki get in on the fun

As the sun went down we put on music from the playlist we had put together via email ahead of the trip, with every boat-related song going back, sheesh, 50 years. Buffett, CSN, Christopher Cross…you get the idea. It was an ideal way to close out an amazing day and celebrate Cindy and good friends.

Moon, Venus, horizon, water

The next morning we thought we’d go visit the archaeological site on the island of Despotiko. We could see what appeared to be columns and a roofline from the boat and were curious. When we got there, after having been soaked on the dinghy ride to the site, we found a closed and locked gate, a sign we didn’t pay that much attention to, a bit of fence that had been knocked down…and at the top of the hill a group of very annoyed archaeologists. They berated us all the way back to the beach and forced us to apologize for entering before official visiting hours. We waited 40 minutes until opening time than and traipsed back up to see the site. Ugly Americans indeed.

The dig was pretty extensive. It was a temple to Apollo and dates to the 6th C BCE. It’s been studied since 2001
The boat was a pleasure to drive. This is a beam reach in 20 knots of wind and I’m driving with one hand.
The wind was howling just offshore but inside the harbor at Koufonisia it was pleasant and warm
Every restaurant we ate at was good and there was always plenty of food
We had a day in harbor so while the ladies shopped I took a walk to the local swimming hole.
Cheri played the role of mermaid, swimming farther and more proficiently than anyone through the beautiful water
Local flora. Banana for scale
It’s impossible to describe how stressful it all was
We stopped for breakfast and a swim in a little bay next to a two-part monastery
The Chora above Serifos. Every island had one, a walled town well up on the hill where the residents could hide from the pirates who roamed the islands
Scott gets his chance to helm

Portugal

Suddenly we were back in busy Athens, a bit of a culture shock after two weeks in the islands. Next day we caught a flight to Porto, Portugal for a few days of exploration. Everyone has told us we have to go to Porto and by golly they’re right, it’s a pretty town with lots to see.

They still make and repair the boats that used to move port wine up and down the Douro river except now they haul tourists
Did someone say “port?” Well we have to try that. Good stuff. The hot (actually cold) drink of the moment is the white port and tonic, of which we downed many and prononced them good.
Henry the Navigator, pointing out which way is the Atlantic.

The Flat

We bid Kim, Scott and Cheri fond adieus. Kim and Scott carried on to Lisbon, Cheri headed back to Seattle and we came back to Valencia to see what if anything had been done to our new flat. Turns out demolition is nearly complete. I’ll include a few photos here to document progress.

Living room. Sliders will go about where the post is and the existing glass will be removed, re-opening the balcony
The partition in the balcony between the primary bedroom ane the living room has been removed
Floor’s been taken up in the bedroom. Slider and side window will be replaced too
Once and hopefully future kitchen

And that’s it. Now we suffer through August and wait for something more to happen with the house. ­¡Hasta pronto!

7 responses to “Isle of Man, Greece and Portugal”

  1. Thank you so so much for posting. I love your trip, and wish I could just go copy it. the new “digs” look absolutely wonderful. I can’t wait for more pics as things get going. Looks to me like you aren’t coming back, sadly enough. But I completely understand. Gorgeous.

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  2. Lynda Driskell Avatar
    Lynda Driskell

    Wow ! Great adventures ! Love your picture with badge man. I have one just like it 😂. Greece magical and Demo major ! Yikes !

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  3. Scott Mullikin Avatar
    Scott Mullikin

    Wonderful update! Thank you for sharing.

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  4. Thank you for such a great update! Love seeing how relaxed, healthy, and happy you and Cindy are. So wonderful! 🙂

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  5. Quite the eventful summer. They lent you a motorcycle? Trusting souls. But at least with a motorcyle left side driving isn’t quite the challenge as a car can be for some.

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  6. William H, Roberts Avatar
    William H, Roberts

    You guys are the lea1ders in adventurous living! It is great to see what you are about at no cost of travel! Thanks for sharing!

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  7. Cool trip, you guys. This is the third time I’ve gone through your post. So much of the world is still out there to explore but it looks like you might see as much as two people possibly can. I’d love to see where you are at in your home reno now!

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